Issue 18

Shanghai, a city known for its bevy of world-class restaurants, also plays host to a gem of a Thai restaurant hidden amongst the alleys honeycombing the city.

Established during the Olympic Games in 2008, ThaiSELECT Chiengmai Heaven had a rough time in its opening two months, a period which saw its sister restaurant closed down due to haemorrhaging loses. Despite its initial setbacks, Chiengmai stuck to its values of using only the best ingredients, even at a loss.

“All of the ingredients used in the restaurant are procured and purchased from Thailand,” says its owner Yang Fangzhen, who looks after the quality of ingredients himself with almost religious fervour. For example, the fish sauce is made from only the most recognised brands in Thailand while the cooking oil is organic non-genetically modified. Nor is any MSG or food colouring used in the dishes.

 Fangzhen started off as a driver, delivering ingredients to restaurants. He witnessed the stream of inferior materials and ingredients flowing into many restaurants in the name of profit. Detesting this practice of what he believed was blatantly scamming customers, he decided to open his own restaurant.

“Right around the time when we first opened, an American came into the restaurant and as he was eating, he gave me a thumbs up complimenting the food, which was a huge encouragement to me,” he says.

Decorated with liberal amounts of red and with only six tables, the surroundings are far from luxurious, but cosy. There are always people waiting for a seat. At 5pm each day, like clockwork, patrons start queuing up, so reservations are the best way to guarantee a seat.

Today, Chiengmai Heaven’s dishes have preserved a traditional Thai taste while maintaining their own identity. The lemon steamed fish, crab curry, winter soup, green curry and shrimp sauce spinach are some of the must-have dishes on offer.

The reputation of the winter soup precedes itself. It’s full-bodied and the shrimp and mushroom combination delivers a kick to the nostrils. The lemon steamed fish really allows you to savour the lemon flavour, you have to dip the fish into the sauce. The secret is using pure fresh lemon juice rather than lemon concentrate. The curry sauce used in the crab curry is made by scratch with real coconut, which really makes the curry taste amazing, and is a practice that is virtually unheard of at any other restaurant.

From the ingredients to the staff, Yang demands authentic, traditional and unblemished Thainess. He also continuously emphasises the importance of high quality raw materials. “Making food is like being a good person, focusing on sincerity and authenticity is the best way to go,” he says.

As for future plans, Fangzhen intends to open another branch in Shanghai next year. “Thai cuisine is unique and healthy, which is why China, and even the whole, world loves it,” he says.

Chiengmai Heaven
145 Jinxian Road, Luwan district, Shanghai, China
Phone: +86 21 6215 8491

Words by Alice You, photos by Chiengmai Heaven

Food tips: Thai Aubergine or Eggplant

An essential ingredient in Thai green and curries. They are the size of a golf ball and can be eaten raw in Thai salads or with Thai chilli pastes as well.

Thai Select

Chiengmai Heaven is endorsed by the DITP under its Thai Select scheme. The Thai SELECT programme was launched to certify and promote authentic Thai cuisine around the world. It is a seal of approval granted to Thai restaurants – both overseas and local Thai eateries that serve authentic food – and processed Thai food products. The objective is to increase the recognition of quality Thai restaurants and processed Thai food products as well as to encourage Thai restaurateurs and food producers to raise quality while maintaining authenticity. For more details of the scheme visit: http://www.thaiselect.com